EX Doll's hidden/secret options

While I cannot add any current "hidden" features I am aware of, I can certainly confirm a few that used to be available in the past - and the rooted eyebrows are indeed one such feature - I just purchased an old Snowy head( pre-2015) that has them as well as the no-longer-available red coloured eyes that my Ruby head has as well.

Ok, this is NOT really a hidden or secret option, but I could not think of a better place to put this and it is somewhat hidden so I'll place the info here.
This post was motivated by seeing Everhard's first photos of his DS167 - great as always, but prompting something in my head, someone kindly invite or point him over here as I will likely not post this elsewhere.
This post is about DS dolls eye mechanism - a reasonably well designed construct comprised of an eyeball located within a cylinder and loaded towards the front by a spring, the cylinder itself being closed and having a square key at the back fitting into a similar square recess at the back of the eye cavity inside the head.
So far, so good, and if the production quality would be German or Japanese this post would not be neccessary, but alas, it is not, its a modern time( mostly) "good enough" quality attempt made in China ... and it is NOT good enough.
What I find is that most times the eye cavity is significantly deeper than the eye cylinder inserted into it ... resulting in the front of the eyes being way too deep into their sockets ... and if you look at the pictures that inspired this post I think that's the case there.
Now, you do not have very many roads to travel as the obvious one - taking the eye out - has a caveat ... yes, this will allow you to put something into the cavity before putting the eye back in to "lift" the eyes base outward a bit thereby adjusting for a significantly better look, but you WILL mostly likely make one small tear into the eye makeup as the silicone is pretty stretchy and usually no problem, but the eye makeup is nowhere near as stretchy.
If you do it right and careful enough and manage to find the sweet spot after not too many attempts - that is the spot where the eye cavity is actually filled by the inserted eye mechanism without that sinking in or bulging the eye - then the damage should be negligible as the makeup will close sufficiently again to not leave a visible gap at the tearing.
It took me 3 attempts to do so on my Samantha head and it is fine now - inside padding required was 4mm though there had been some padding in there already with about 1.5ish mm thickness so about 2.5mm gap got closed - it made quite a difference in the final look ... to be honest though I wanted to change the eye colour anyway and might not have done it that enthusiastic otherwise.
Now, having said all that, if you do NOT want to take the eyes out and risk some damage you can do something else that may help - note that the eyes being spring loaded can be pressed into their metal cylinder a bit and that is the usual way to rotate them => press and rotate, then release.
Grab a toothpick( or similar), press the eyeball in and put the tooth pick in between the eye and the cylinder( along the rim somewhere), then release the pressure on the eye - that way the toothpick will get jammed in between the eye and cylinder and allow you leverage to shift the eye cylinder towards the front and then take it back out - basically pressure perpendicular to the toothpick allows you to adjust the eye depth in the socket and applying it axial will take the toothpick out again.
Hope this may be useful for some people.

I take a lot of photos of faces close up so this is a very important feature for me.
Have yet to get my doll so cannot comment further but I had hoped for better.
Thanks for the info mi6c ,it could well be invaluable.